How to Wash Waterproof Clothes

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Regular detergent destroys DWR. Use Nikwax Tech Wash or similar. Heat reactivates DWR — try tumble dry low before reproofing.

DWR vs the Membrane — Two Separate Systems

Waterproof technical clothing has two separate systems. The membrane (Gore-Tex, eVent, Pertex Shield, and others) is a microporous film laminated into the fabric. It blocks water droplets from passing through while allowing water vapour (sweat) to escape. This membrane does not wear out quickly — it can last the lifetime of the garment. The DWR (Durable Water Repellency) is a separate chemical coating applied to the outer face fabric. DWR causes water to bead and roll off the outer surface rather than soaking into the face fabric. When DWR is working, the jacket stays light and breathable. When DWR fails (a process called 'wet-out'), the outer fabric becomes saturated with water. The jacket feels cold and heavy, and breathability is severely compromised even though the membrane beneath is still intact. DWR degrades from abrasion, contamination with body oils, and crucially — from residues left by regular laundry detergent. This is why washing a waterproof jacket with standard detergent makes wet-out worse.

Signs DWR Has Failed

•The outer fabric looks visibly wet and dark rather than beading water
•The jacket feels heavy and cold in rain — like a soaked cotton hoodie
•Condensation appears inside despite low activity — the membrane cannot breathe because the outer is saturated
•The jacket takes hours to dry after use

How to Wash a Waterproof Jacket

1
Empty pockets and close all zips and velcro
Velcro left open snags on other items and the lining during washing. Close all zips to prevent wear on zip tape. Check pockets — residual tissue is particularly problematic.
2
Use a technical cleaner — NOT regular detergent
Use a product designed for waterproof garments: Nikwax Tech Wash, Grangers Performance Wash, or similar. These clean effectively without leaving the surfactant residues that regular detergent deposits on DWR-coated fabric. Regular detergent, fabric softener, and biological (enzyme) detergent all degrade DWR — avoid them.
3
Wash on a low-temperature, gentle cycle
30°C gentle or delicates cycle. High temperatures and aggressive agitation can damage the laminate bonding in waterproof fabrics, particularly in older or budget garments. Some Gore-Tex garments allow up to 40°C — check the care label.
4
Run an extra rinse cycle
Run an additional rinse cycle to ensure no cleaning product residue remains in the fabric. Residue from even technical washes can slightly affect DWR performance if not fully rinsed out.
5
Tumble dry on LOW or iron on low through a cloth
This step is often overlooked and makes a significant difference. Heat reactivates DWR. Many jackets that seem to have failed DWR just need a 20-minute tumble on a low setting or a gentle iron (on low, through a thin cloth, with the jacket inside-out). The heat restructures the DWR molecules. Do this BEFORE assuming you need to reproof.
6
Reproof if the garment still wets out after heat treatment
If the jacket still wets out (water no longer beads, outer fabric looks dark and saturated when wet) after washing and heat treatment, apply a reproofing product. Options: wash-in reproofing (Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In, Grangers Clothing Repel Wash-In) or spray-on reproofing (Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On, Grangers Performance Repel Plus). Spray-on treatments are more precise and waste less product on areas that do not need treatment (like lining). Wash-in is more convenient but applies to the full garment including lining. After applying, tumble dry or iron again to cure the coating.

Wash-In vs Spray-On Reproofing

Wash-in treatment

Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In, Grangers Clothing Repel

+ Easy to apply — goes in the washing machine. Treats the full garment evenly.

− Applies to the lining too, which can reduce moisture-wicking performance. Uses more product than necessary.

→ For casual users who want simplicity. For fully-seam-sealed garments where even treatment matters.

Spray-on treatment

Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On, Grangers Performance Repel Plus

+ Targeted application to outer face fabric only. More economical. Does not affect the lining's moisture management.

− Takes more time to apply evenly. Easier to miss patches.

→ For technical users, frequently reproofers, or garments with active wicking linings.

What to Avoid

Regular laundry detergent

Regular detergents leave surfactant residues on the DWR-coated face fabric. These residues attract moisture and actively degrade the water-repellent coating. This is the single most common cause of premature DWR failure.

Fabric softener

Fabric softener coats fibres with silicone and other compounds designed to reduce friction. On DWR-coated fabric, this creates a hydrophilic layer that actively attracts water. One wash with fabric softener can permanently compromise DWR performance.

Not drying before storage

Storing a damp waterproof jacket compressed in a stuff sack or wardrobe accelerates DWR degradation and can promote mould. Always dry fully before storage.

Storing compressed long-term

Long-term compression creases the membrane and creates permanent fold lines that can eventually crack the laminate. Store hung up or loosely folded when not in use for extended periods.

High heat in the dryer

High heat can delaminate the waterproof membrane from the face fabric, particularly on older or budget garments where the adhesive is less robust. Always use low heat.

FAQ

Can you wash waterproof jackets in a washing machine?

Yes, most waterproof jackets can be machine washed — but you must use a technical cleaner (Nikwax Tech Wash, Grangers Performance Wash) instead of regular detergent. Regular detergent leaves residues that degrade the DWR water-repellent coating. Use a gentle cycle at 30°C and run an extra rinse cycle. After washing, tumble dry on low heat or iron on low through a cloth to reactivate the DWR coating.

Why does my waterproof jacket feel wet inside?

If your waterproof jacket feels wet and cold inside during activity, the most likely cause is DWR failure — the outer face fabric is saturated with water ('wet-out') rather than repelling it. When the outer fabric is saturated, the waterproof membrane cannot breathe and condensation from body heat cannot escape. The membrane is likely still working; it is the DWR on the outer surface that has failed. Washing with a technical cleaner and applying heat (tumble dry low or iron low) often restores DWR. If not, apply a reproofing treatment.

How often should you reproof a waterproof jacket?

Reproof when the jacket begins to wet out — when water no longer beads and rolls off but soaks into the outer fabric instead. For a jacket used occasionally, this might be every 1–2 years. For a jacket used heavily in the field, every few months. Before reprooking: wash with a technical cleaner and apply heat (tumble dryer low, 20 minutes). Heat alone often reactivates a lightly degraded DWR without requiring full reproofing.

What is the difference between DWR and the waterproof membrane?

They are separate systems. The waterproof membrane (Gore-Tex, eVent, etc.) is a microporous laminate inside the fabric that blocks water droplets while allowing water vapour to pass. It rarely fails and can last the lifetime of the garment. DWR (Durable Water Repellency) is a chemical coating on the outer face fabric that causes water to bead and run off. DWR degrades from abrasion, contamination, and improper washing. When DWR fails, the outer fabric soaks up water — this does not mean the membrane has failed, but it dramatically reduces breathability.

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