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How to Wash Terrycloth and Towels

Terry loop pile absorbs water via capillary action through millions of interfibre channels in each yarn arch. Fabric softener permanently coats those channels with a hydrophobic waxy layer, cutting absorbency by 30–50% after just a few washes. Never use fabric softener on terry. Tumble dry on medium heat to refluff collapsed loops; air drying leaves them stiff.

The Chemistry

Terry cloth (terrycloth, terry towelling) is a loop pile fabric. The base is a standard plain-weave ground fabric, but a second set of warp threads — the pile warp — is fed at much looser tension, and the weaving process leaves these extra warp threads as arched loops on one or both surfaces. Bath towels are typically double-sided terry (loops on both faces); robes and sportswear terry may be single-sided. Each loop is a yarn arch anchored at both ends in the ground weave. The key structural property is surface area: the looped pile exposes an enormous total fibre surface relative to a flat woven fabric of the same weight. Water absorption works via capillary action — water is drawn along the tiny interfibre channels between the individual cotton or polyester fibres within each loop yarn. The higher the surface area and the tighter the loop structure, the faster the water uptake. The single most important care fact about terry is what fabric softener does to it. Fabric softeners work by depositing a thin layer of cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants onto the fibre surface. These molecules have a positively charged head that binds electrostatically to the slightly negatively charged cotton fibre surface, and a long hydrophobic (water-repelling) tail that faces outward. This waxy hydrophobic layer is what makes fabric feel soft — but it completely fills the fine interfibre capillary channels in the loop pile. After two or three washes with fabric softener, a cotton terry towel loses 30–50% of its original absorbency, because the channels that pull water into the fabric are now coated with a water-repelling layer. This effect is cumulative and largely irreversible once the wax coating has built up. Washing the towel several times without softener removes some of the coating and partially restores absorbency, but the effect is never completely undone. Never use fabric softener on terry items. Cotton is the standard terry fibre — specifically ring-spun cotton, which produces a yarn with a tight core and fewer loose fibre ends. Egyptian cotton and Turkish cotton refer to long-staple (extra-long staple, ELS) cotton varieties where individual fibres are longer than standard. Longer fibres produce fewer yarn splices and fewer free fibre ends — resulting in less pilling. The absorption mechanism is identical to standard cotton terry; long-staple cotton does not absorb more water, it simply holds its appearance longer. Polyester terry and microfibre terry are produced for sports towels and some budget towels. Polyester is inherently hydrophobic — a polyester terry towel absorbs little water by capillary action, but fine polyester microfibre physically traps water in the interfibre gaps between very fine fibres. Polyester has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of approximately 70–80°C — above this, polyester softens and the pile can mat, glaze, and permanently fuse. Never tumble dry polyester terry on high heat. Air-dried cotton terry feels stiff because water evaporates from the loop pile while fibres are in contact with each other — surface tension pulls the fibres together and they dry in a collapsed, flattened position. Tumble drying continuously agitates the loops during drying so they cannot collapse — the result is a softer, fluffier pile. In hard-water areas, calcium and magnesium mineral deposits also accumulate in the loop pile with each wash and stiffen the loops. White vinegar (acetic acid) in the rinse cycle dissolves these deposits without applying any hydrophobic coating.

Step-by-step

  1. 1

    Machine wash at 40–60°C — terry is robust cotton and tolerates regular hot washing

    Towels benefit from 60°C washing for hygiene — skin bacteria, dead skin cells, and body oils accumulate quickly in loop pile and 60°C ensures effective sanitisation. 40°C is sufficient if towels are washed every 2–3 uses and fully dried between each use. Use a standard wash cycle with a full detergent dose — enzyme detergent is safe on cotton and effective at removing the protein and oil soiling that builds up in towels. Never use a delicates cycle — reduced agitation leaves towels less clean.

  2. 2

    Never use fabric softener — it permanently fills loop pile channels and destroys absorbency

    Fabric softener deposits cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants onto the cotton fibre surface. These hydrophobic molecules fill the fine capillary channels between fibres in the loop pile — the same channels that pull water into the towel. Two or three washes with fabric softener reduces absorbency by 30–50%, and the effect builds with each application. White vinegar in the rinse cycle (80ml) softens towels instead — vinegar strips mineral buildup in hard-water areas without blocking the loop pile channels.

  3. 3

    Tumble dry on medium heat — tumbling prevents loop collapse and restores fluffiness

    Loop pile dries stiff and flat when air dried because surface tension collapses the fibres as water evaporates. Tumble drying continuously agitates the loops so they cannot collapse — the result is a fluffier pile. Use medium heat. High heat over repeated washes degrades cotton fibres via progressive cellulose hydrolysis — towels become thinner and less durable over years. Remove promptly when dry to avoid fibre degradation from sitting in a hot drum.

  4. 4

    Wash new towels twice before first use — mill finish reduces absorbency initially

    New cotton terry towels are often treated with a silicone or starch finish that gives them a smooth, appealing feel in the shop. This finish reduces absorbency on first use. Washing twice without fabric softener removes the finish. New towels also shed significant lint in the first two or three washes — wash separately from dark clothing to avoid white lint transfer.

  5. 5

    Restore stiff towels by adding 80ml white vinegar to the rinse cycle

    In hard-water areas, calcium and magnesium mineral salts accumulate in the loop pile with each wash and create a stiff, scratchy surface. White vinegar (acetic acid) dissolves these mineral deposits in the rinse cycle, softening the towel without applying a hydrophobic coating. This is also effective for removing fabric softener buildup from previously treated towels. Repeat for 2–3 consecutive washes to fully strip accumulated mineral and softener deposits.

  6. 6

    Do not over-pack the drum — large towels need room to tumble cleanly

    Large towels and bath sheets expand significantly when wet and can fill the drum when packed with other items. An over-packed drum cannot agitate effectively. Wash 2–3 large towels per load maximum for a standard 7–8kg machine. Face cloths and hand towels can fill any remaining space. Wash at 60°C with a full detergent dose for towels with heavy soiling.

Terry washing guide by type

TypeWashFabric softenerDryNotes
Cotton bath towels60°C for hygiene; 40°C if washed every 2–3 usesNever — permanently fills loop poresTumble dry medium; remove promptlyWash new towels twice before first use to remove mill finish
Polyester / microfibre sports towelsCold 30°C gentle cycleAvoid — polyester already hydrophobic; softener worsens itAir dry or tumble dry low only (Tg ~70–80°C)High heat glazes and mats polyester pile permanently
Long-staple (Egyptian / Turkish) cotton40–60°C machine washNeverTumble dry mediumSame care as standard cotton; long fibres pill less, not more absorbent
Bamboo terry (bamboo viscose)Cold 30°C gentle — bamboo terry is bamboo viscoseNeverAir dry flat or low tumble dryBamboo viscose loses 40–50% strength when wet; handle gently
Hooded baby towels40°C gentle cycleNever — residue contacts baby skinTumble dry low or air dryWash with fragrance-free baby detergent; avoid optical brighteners
Terry robes / dressing gowns40–60°C machine wash; check lining care label if presentNeverTumble dry medium; lined robes may need air dryTerry outer is robust — the lining is usually the limiting factor

Frequently asked questions

Why does fabric softener make towels less absorbent?

Fabric softener deposits cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants onto the cotton fibre surface. These molecules have a long hydrophobic (water-repelling) tail that faces outward from the fibre. This coating fills the fine capillary channels between fibres in the loop pile — the channels that pull water into the towel by capillary action. After two or three washes with fabric softener, absorbency drops by 30–50%. The effect is cumulative and builds with each application. Washing several times with white vinegar in the rinse cycle (80ml) strips the coating and partially restores absorbency.

How often should towels be washed?

Bath towels should be washed after every 2–3 uses. Skin cells, body oils, sweat, and bacteria accumulate quickly in the loop pile, and the damp bathroom environment encourages bacterial growth. Face cloths and gym towels should be washed after every use. Wash at 60°C to kill bacteria — 40°C is sufficient if towels are washed frequently and fully dried between uses. Always dry towels completely between uses; a damp towel sitting in a warm bathroom breeds bacteria faster than a dry one.

Why do towels feel rough after air drying?

Loop pile dries stiff after air drying because surface tension pulls the individual cotton fibres together as water evaporates — the loops collapse and dry flat. In hard-water areas, calcium and magnesium mineral deposits also accumulate in the loop pile with each wash and stiffen the loops further. Tumble drying continuously agitates the loops during drying, preventing collapse. For air-dried towels, adding 80ml of white vinegar to the rinse cycle dissolves mineral deposits and reduces stiffness. Giving the towel a firm shake when removing from the washer also helps open the loops before hanging.

Can you tumble dry terrycloth and towels?

Yes — tumble drying on medium heat is the best drying method for cotton terry. It agitates the loop pile during drying, preventing fibre collapse and restoring the fluffy texture that air drying cannot achieve. Use medium heat, not high heat. Repeated high-heat drying degrades cotton fibres through progressive cellulose hydrolysis, making towels thinner and less durable over years. Remove promptly when dry. For polyester terry and microfibre sports towels, tumble dry on low heat only — polyester glazes permanently above its glass transition temperature of approximately 70–80°C.