How to Wash Faux Leather
Faux leather peels because PU hydrolyses in water — the same chemistry that destroys tent coatings. Never machine wash. Spot clean with a damp cloth and dry immediately.
The Chemistry
Faux leather (also called vegan leather, PU leather, or leatherette) is not a fabric — it is a coating system. A knitted or woven fabric backing (usually polyester or cotton) is coated with polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), then embossed with a leather-grain pattern under heat and pressure. PU faux leather fails via hydrolysis — the same mechanism that causes tent coatings to peel. The urethane-ester bonds in the polyurethane polymer are susceptible to nucleophilic attack by water. Over time, water breaks the ester linkage (-CO-O-) producing alcohol and carboxylic acid byproducts. The result is softening, stickiness, and eventually physical delamination of the coating from the backing fabric. Heat, humidity, UV, and mechanical stress all accelerate this reaction. Machine washing dramatically accelerates PU hydrolysis for three reasons: (1) sustained immersion provides more water contact time than normal wear; (2) the wash temperature (even cold cycles run at 15–20°C) is warmer than typical home temperatures; (3) mechanical agitation physically stresses the coating at the microscopic level, initiating crack propagation from any existing micro-defects. PVC faux leather is chemically more stable (vinyl chloride polymer does not hydrolyse), but is stiffer, less breathable, and cracked by acetone and certain dry cleaning solvents. It is also damaged by heat — the plasticizer (usually dioctyl phthalate) that keeps PVC flexible can migrate out of the polymer matrix over time, causing the material to stiffen and crack. Dry cleaning solvents (perchloroethylene, hydrocarbon solvents) dissolve polyurethane and delaminate the coating. Never dry clean PU faux leather. Real leather (tanned animal collagen) responds to water and agitation very differently — it absorbs water and can be conditioned with oils. The cleaning rules for faux leather and real leather are essentially opposite.
Step-by-step
- 1
Identify whether the material is PU or PVC
PU faux leather feels soft, has a slight give, and is often used in clothing, bags, and shoes. PVC is stiffer, with a harder surface, common in furniture and budget accessories. PU is more susceptible to hydrolysis. Both must not be machine washed.
- 2
Spot clean with a damp cloth
For most cleaning: dampen a soft cloth with cool water and wipe the surface. Wring the cloth well — excess water sitting on the surface accelerates PU hydrolysis. For greasy marks, add one drop of mild dish soap to the damp cloth.
- 3
Remove stubborn marks with isopropyl alcohol (PU only)
A small amount of rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, 70%) on a cotton pad removes ink, scuff marks, and stubborn stains from PU. Test on an inconspicuous area first — isopropyl alcohol can dull the surface finish on some PU formulations. Do not use acetone (nail polish remover) — it dissolves PU completely.
- 4
Rinse with a lightly damp clean cloth
After cleaning, wipe with a clean damp cloth to remove all soap residue. Surfactant residue left on the surface accelerates surface degradation over time. Never rinse under running water.
- 5
Dry immediately with a dry cloth
Pat dry with a clean dry cloth. Do not leave water standing on the surface. Allow to fully air dry in a cool, well-ventilated area before storing. Never use a hair dryer or direct heat — heat accelerates PU delamination.
- 6
Condition with a specialist PU conditioner periodically
PU faux leather benefits from periodic application of a PU conditioner (not leather conditioner — the formulations differ). This helps slow hydrolysis by providing a hydrophobic barrier and keeps the surface supple. Apply once every few months on frequently used items.
Material comparison
| Material | Composition | Failure mode | Cleaning | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PU faux leather | Polyurethane coating on fabric backing | Hydrolysis — coating peels and flakes; accelerated by heat, humidity, UV | Damp cloth, mild soap, isopropyl alcohol for stains, PU conditioner | Machine washing, submersion, dry cleaning, acetone, heat |
| PVC faux leather | Polyvinyl chloride with fabric backing; plasticizer for flexibility | Plasticizer migration — stiffens and cracks; crack from cold + flexing | Damp cloth, mild soap; wipe dry immediately | Acetone, dry cleaning solvents, sustained heat, machine washing |
| Real leather | Tanned animal collagen fibre matrix | Desiccation — dries out and cracks without conditioning; mould in damp storage | Saddle soap, leather conditioner; specialist leather cleaner for stains | Machine washing, detergent, alcohol in excess, prolonged water exposure |
| Microfibre leather (Alcantara) | Ultra-fine polyester microfibre, suede-like texture | Pile flattening from abrasion; staining from oily contact | Damp cloth, mild soap; specialised Alcantara cleaner for stains | Machine washing, solvents, harsh scrubbing, conditioners designed for PU |
Frequently asked questions
Can you machine wash faux leather?
No. Machine washing faux leather accelerates PU hydrolysis and delaminates the coating from the fabric backing. The combination of sustained water exposure, temperature, and agitation is the fastest way to destroy faux leather. Spot clean with a damp cloth only.
Why is my faux leather jacket peeling?
The PU coating is hydrolysing — water molecules are breaking the urethane-ester chemical bonds, causing the coating to soften and peel away from the fabric backing. This is accelerated by heat, humidity, UV exposure, and mechanical flexing at fold points. Unfortunately, once started, PU hydrolysis cannot be reversed. Peeling PU can only be removed or the item replaced.
Can you use leather conditioner on faux leather?
Not traditional leather conditioner. Real leather conditioners use oils (neatsfoot oil, lanolin) formulated to penetrate tanned collagen — they sit on the surface of PU rather than absorbing, and some oily conditioners can actually soften and accelerate PU degradation. Use a conditioner specifically formulated for PU or synthetic leather.
Can you dry clean faux leather?
No. Dry cleaning solvents (perchloroethylene, hydrocarbon solvents) dissolve polyurethane. A single dry cleaning cycle can remove the coating entirely. Faux leather must never be dry cleaned.